Archive for July, 2010

The ups and downs of learning Chinese

Friday, July 30th, 2010

So here I am in Beijing, trying to understand the language that I started to learn one year ago a little bit more. I have made huge progress already, and Ican actually make myself understood in a lot of basic situations, obviously having to use hand and feet (and every object available).
What makes learning Chinese so fascinating is that every day, when I go to bed, I have a different feeling about the language and where all this is going. I mean, there are obvious difficulties, like the tones and the characters, but you know about these from the first day of learning the language. The most fascinating part is that sometimes, this language seems completely logical, like having Lego bricks just waiting to be assembled. So you have about 2000 to 5000 characters, depending on the level of literacy to achieve, each having usually one pronunciation and a field of meaning. Often, two of them make one word. (Don’t let yourself get distracted by the diacritics in the following examples, they indicate the tones, if you don’t know what they are, just ignore them, I just include them for precision)
电 (diàn) is the character used for electric stuff. 电脑 (diànnǎo) “electric brain” is a computer, 电视 (diànshì) “electronic look” is a TV, etc. 数学 (shùxué) literally means “number study” and refers to mathematics. 动物 (dòngwù) “moving thing” is an animal!
Let’s give some example which illustrates nicely how “logical” this language can be: 欧 (ōu) is the character usually used for Europe, 亚 (yà) for Asia, 美 (měi) for America. 欧洲 (ōuzhōu) is the European continent, 亚洲 (yàzhōu) is Asia and 美洲 (měizhōu) the American continent. 美国 (měiguó) refers to the USA whereas 美元 (měiyuán) means US Dollar and 欧元 (ōuyuán) is the Euro. While it might not be politically correct to just identify the US with the continent, these names are certainly easy to remember once you know the underlying characters or syllables.
It is possible to find many similar examples. The reason this really amazes me is that there are only a few thousand characters to learn, as elaborated above. Certainly, not an easy task, but manageable. This, and then understanding how theses characters are used to make words, would be more or less all that is required? I actually don’t know whether that is true. Maybe it is just wishful thinking.
But, then, every other day, I will encounter another phrase of which I think: OK, I know all the components of this. But it seems just like randomly stuck together, having no meaning at all. Yesterday, it was this phrase:
这是我们经理给您的信。(Zhè shì wǒmen jīnglǐ gěi nín de xìn.)
This is our manager give you de letter.

的 (de) is a grammatical particle indicating a kind of possession. You can see it working like the English “of” or French “de” (funny is that they are even pronounced the same way), only that the word order is inverted and is much more general in usage. When I first saw this sentence, I was completely unable to figure out what it means, until I understood that “our manager give you” is the description of the letter, giving the sender and the recipient at the same time and having nothing to do with the manager giving the message directly. So the translation is “Here is a letter for you from our manager”. The funny thing is, now, this sounds completely logical to me, but I know that I am very soon going to encounter the next sentence like this. The question is, is this going to end?

There seems to be a large number of grammatical constructs, (and generally the language can be used very freely), on the other hand, once you have learned them, you can use them. You do not have to learn thousands of new verb forms or declinations, usually just one or two characters and sounds. At least, this makes it interesting to learn. You have a new surprise every day.

Transsiberian Notes

Sunday, July 18th, 2010

After having used the Moscow-Beijing train (Train 4), I would like to share some tips concerning this trip, although many of these apply to the Transsiberian in general:

  • As you probably know, there is a Samovar from which hot (almost boiling) water can be drawn at any time for free, in every wagon. Coffee and tea are obvious, some instant meals like noodles and meshed potatoes are good to bring. However, you do not need to bring too much, as you can buy it at every stop from the vendors on the platforms. If you like to have some fruit, this may be more important to bring, as with the vendors, you never know how fresh it is.
  • Bring the cutlery and crockery to eat your meals. Fork, spoon, knife, a cup and a plate are very useful. You will be offered alcohol and you might want to have something to drink it from.
  • Toilet paper is not provided, so bring yours. Can also be bought on the way, but expect Soviet-style single-layer (rough, with holes) then.
  • DC 48 V ??

    There are power outlets in the wagons (this is the Chinese rolling stock on train 4, remember, Russian rolling stock may be completely different), which are exactly German Schuko standard (so fit Euro plugs). They are, however, dubiously labelled “DC 48 V”. Some mobile phones could charge (mostly the ones with very new USB chargers), such as my Motorola Milestone (probably the power adapters are very tolerant). At least some Nokia and Sony Ericsson models had problems, my laptop wouldn’t charge. However, there may be 220 V outlets in first class compartments and I think I have seen 110 V ones in one Russian waggon which was in our train (I think it went for Irkutsk)

  • First class compartments have showers shared between two of them. However, I have been told that there is not a lot of water coming from them, so they might not be worth it.
  • “Siberia” might sound like a cold place, but in summer, it definitely isn’t (continental climate). So prepare for very hot wheather, there is no air conditioning on the train.
  • You might be tempted to think that the train gives you plenty of time to adjust to time zone changes. Well, that might be true if you make sure you always go to bed according to the right time zone, but I can tell you, it is not too easy. On the first two days, it is 2h/day, which is too fast for most people, so you might want to adjust only part of it. Then another hour on the third day, but in summer, you probably don’t want to set this, as you would have to set it back when coming to Mongolia and China, which do not use Daylight Saving Time.
    However, the real problem is that the train is running according to Moscow time all the way through Russia, so many passengers do not change their time at all, and it is quite difficult to adjust your time living next to people who  go to bed at totally different times.
  • I used a Megafon (МегаФон) Russian SIM card, which provided me with cheap internet access until crossing the Mongolian border.

Moscow-Beijing

Thursday, July 15th, 2010

On Monday, I arrived in Beijing, after a train journey which features among the longest existing: Over 7600 km, travelled in 5.5 days. OK, that is quite a long journey, you say, but I have to say I wasn’t bored even for a moment. But maybe that was due to the factors of having 1500 cards with Chinese characters on them which I wanted to learn (and succeeded, mostly), as well as being very excited about the fact that I would go to so many places to the first time. Also, the two Swedes in my compartment were very nice.

Getting on the train. Chinese rolling stock Yingwoche = Hard sleeper

The train left on Tueday (6.7.) night. First, we went through Russia, but most of the Siberian landscape is not very exciting. It’s just trees as far as you can see. Very notable is the possibility of buying things at the platform when the train stops. You can get food which is not very expensive, maybe it

Food is easy to buy on Russian platforms. People know just enough English to sell their products, but communication with hands and feet is the most promising alternative

Sometimes the means are more basic

is for Russian standards but

Cleaning the windows was not included ...

I would say average European prices. I actually never tried the Russian restaurant because of this … but my guess is, that it would have been very expensive, at least that was true for the one on the Berlin-Moscow train.

The Samovar is your friend. Hot water at any time of the day and night, to prepare coffee, tea and instant meals. Coal-fired, not insulated, probably not very environmentally friendly.

We woke up with the view of lake Baikal in the morning. Well, “morning” is a difficult concept on the Transsiberian. You might think trains are slow, but in the first two days, you still get two hours per day time difference, another one on the third day (but the latter you have to set back in China and Mongolia, which do not have DST). This is faster than most people adapt, and especially since the train is running on Moscow time for the whole trip through Russia you are more lazy. Also, the nights may be very short in summer up

Lake Baikal. Definitely planning to get out here some time in the future

here…

Mongolia was maybe the most interesting part of the trip. Pulled by an old Soviet 2M62 on a very curvy track, one way, not electrified, with some telegraph lines on the side. I thought, this must be what train travel in the Old West must have been like (and indeed, someone told me that only a few years ago, Native Americans Mongolians had pillaged some trains. I don’t know whether that is true, but it seems safe now.

Entering Mongolia. A comment on the cyrillic sign: One thing I learned on this train trip is that Western people overrate the English language by a large amount. Only a tiny part of the people in Russia, Mongolia or China even know basic English. I met a Mongolian girl on the train who was very educated, had studied in Beijing and Moscow. Despite this (and being fluent in Mongolian, Chinese and Russian) she knew only very basic English. We have to understand that the English-speaking universe is actually limited. The same goes for the latin alphabet: It was barely used on the train or the stations, which used nearly exclusively Cyrillic and Hanzi. Luckily, it is not that difficult to learn the cyrillic alphabet so you can at least read the place names.

Some Mongolian Gers. I would like to visit them one time …
I was told it has been a wet year, otherwise there would have been much less vegetation.

Nicest welcome in China, classical music all the time. I was too late to capture the soldiers saluting the train.

The Chinese definitely had the nicest border control, speaking the best English of all. Through loudspeakers we were first greeted with music, than came instructions in several different languages. From Erlian, the Chinese border control station, it was only half a day to Beijing, at a speed at least twice our speed on the Transmongolian track.

Great Chinese landscapes, maybe I am lucky it has been foggy since I arrived. It might be really hot otherwise.

Moscow …

Monday, July 5th, 2010

is my last stop in Europe. Tomorrow night, my train to

Kremlin

Entrance to the Kremlin (with Alexander, my "guide")

Asia will depart. I am incredibly excited!

Thank you, Alexander, for showing me this wonderful city!

For the interested, as long as I am still in Russia, I may send some updates via Twitter (which I can’t link to a Russian number, so I will have to use it over internet. And I currently have no idea if it works outside the Moscow region, both the card and internet access)